What they do:
Tie the lower a-pillar frame member to the upper front frame member for triangulation of the junction between to two to make it stronger. There are braces there in the stock config, but those are stamped steel, and about as strong as a wet noodle. Ours are much stiffer.
What they are made of:
Why you want them:
Stiffer is better!! Seriously, people who have installed them have been amazed at what a drastic change such a small part can make. Instead of making your car's frame act like a spring let your spring act like a spring. Afterall, that's what it's supposed to do.
Oh, and for the guys who still don't believe us. You're selling yourself short, and you'll learn it the hard way at the track when your competition enters and exits corners faster than you. Heck, you know what, don't buy them. Our customers will just enjoy beating you around the track that much more.
You do not need to remove the entire fender to install these!!
Tools you will need.
Flat head screwdriver
10 or 12mm socket with extension (I don't remember the size off the top of my head so I'll need to double check)
14mm ratching box end wrench (We call these happy wrenches)
Some kind of extension for that 14mm box end wrench or large box end wrench that you can slip over the open end and use as a lever arm extension.
Tape of some type (race tape, painters tape, masking tape, etc)
Get the front of the safely in the air and get the front wheels off.
Use the screwdrivers and pliers to pull the pop-its for the fender liners. You will leave one in place. That's the last one right above the end of the side skirt. This way you do not have to remove the side skirts to pull the fender liners off.
Look up at the very top of the fender line. There is a 10 or 12mm bolt holding it up. Remove that (I will confirm sizes when I do the pretty instructions)
Pull the fender liner down and rest it on the brake assembly.
Stick your head in there and take a look. There are four bolts holding the stock brace in place. Here's how we'll refer to each end. Upper end for the upper frame member. Door end for the end the bolts up between the door hinges. On both the upper end and door end are two bolts. A top bolt and a bottom bolt. All 4 are 14mm.
Ok, the bolts are a bit hard to break loose. The reason is because they were in place when the car was dipped at the factory. This means they are painted on, making it a bit difficult to break loose.
Spray them with PB blast, and go have a cup of coffee (or a soda).
Come back and stick your head back in there. Here's how we're going to do this.
From within the fender: crack the bottom bolt on the upper end and remove it.
From within the fender: crack the lower bolt on the door end and remove it.
Now open the front door and take a look between the hinges. Find the upper bolt on the door end. Take some tape and put it on the inner edge between the hinges, and put some more on the edge of the door. This is to keep you from scratching the paint if you wrench slips.
Now, take your 14mm happy wrench and get it on the upper door end bolt. If your happy wrench is offset then great, if not get it on there the best that you can. Now take your breaker bar or big box end wrench and slip it over the open end of the 14mm wrench. Slip a hand inside to keep the wrench on the bolt head and apply steady pressure to crack the bolt. If you start to round off the head then stop and take a look as to why it's rounding. Make sure the wrench is as far on the head as you can get it. Once you have it cracked get your head back in the fender.
For the top bolt on the upper end clearance is really really tight to get a wrench in there with the brace in the way. Grab the door end of the brace and push it up to crack the paint gluing the bolt head then pull the door end all the way down so the brace is pointed verically. This will give you enough room to get to the last bolt.
Crack the top bolt loose and remove it. Now, you may not have enough clearance to remove it as dimensions are a bit tight (as in you only need 1-2 more mm). If that is the case then pop the hood and find the three bolts along the top of the fender. Use the edge of some tape to mark where the fender is supposed to meet up on the frame. Crack those three bolts loose, but do not remove them, and gently shift the fender away from the frame. This will give you enough room to get the upper bolt the rest of the way out.
Once you have removed the brace look at your new brace. The end with the notch in it is the upper end.
Start with the upper end top bolt and work in the reverse order of the disassebly process. Do NOT tighten the bolts down as you go. Just get them all in and finger tight first. Once you have them all in and finger tight then go back and tighten them all the rest of the way. I do not have a torque spec on these yet, but a couple of grunts should do it.
If you had to loosen the fender be sure to push the fender back to it's original position and retighten the bolts. Torque is only 5.5 lbs so don't gorilla these.
Now, reattach the fender liner. Remember the liner goes inside the lip of the fender.