First get the car safely in the air. Then slide underneath, and take a look.
Find the tranny crossmember. You will be removing this. Put a jack under the tranny to support it.
There are 6 bolts, and 2 nuts. For the rear cross section there are 4 bolts. For the front cross section there are 2 bolts. For the tranny mount to the crossmember remove the two nuts. Depending upon your exhaust you may be able to get the subframe over the midpipe with some creative lifting with the jack. Otherwise, get that part out of the way.
Now take a look at the assembly. Undo the nut for the front stay and remove the washer. Note the orientation of the washer!! Pull the stay rod forward, and out of the rear stay bushing.
Now, look upward at the linkage. On the tranny side clevis is a roll pin. It's a double pin with one inside the other. We've always treated it as one pin. Use a large punch and hammer to drive the pin flush with the surrounding metal. Switch to a 1/4" punch and drive the pin the rest of the way out. Please note you will be reusing this pin.
Now look at the clevis on the control arm side. There is a bolt, and a nut on top. By feel fit a wrench on the nut on top. undo that bolt and let drop. Pull the control arm clevis off the linkage trunnion. Since you have the roll pin out the clevis will slide off the end of the gear selector rod.
Look at your new linkage. If there's not a lot of grease on the bushing faces add some. Tighten the tranny side bolt to 11 lbs.
Slide clevis onto selector rod coming out of tranny, and line up the holes for the roll pin. Please note the "hump" on the clevis goes up.
Reinstall roll pin. Here's a tip - get a long socket extension, and put the pin in the "cup" end to help hold it in place while you gently tap to start the roll pin. Once you get it started switch back to your punch and drive the pin inward until you can feel it protruding a little bit on top.
Now push the control rod clevis onto the linkage trunnion. It's gonna be tight. That's what we want. Some extra grease may help here. Line up the holes in the clevis with the bore through the crush tube. Insert funky looking new bolt that came with your kit into here from underneath. Make sure the small step toward the head of the bolt fits into the hole on the clevis.
Up on top place the washer over the threads, and then the lock nut. If you're truly paranoid use some locktite here. Tighten to 11 lbs.
Put some grease on the rear end of the stay, and shove it back into the rear stay bushing.
Reinstall the the front stay by sliding it over the stud, and reinstalling the washer and nut.
Reinstall the tranny subframe.
The 2 14mm nuts for the tranny mount get torqued to 25.3 ft-lbs.
The 2 17mm bolts get torqued to 103 ft-lbs (according to service manual) with a tolerence of 14 ft-lbs.
Honestly 103 makes me nervous so I only do about 80 or so, but it's up to you.
The 4 14mm bolts get torqued to 51.6 ft-lbs (according to service manual).
Please note, if you have not done so this installation is a perfect time to do the Kartboy stay bushings and tranny Crossmember bushings. We can help you out with both of those
Once you have it all together get in the car, and run through the gears a few times to spread the grease around.